Hats Off
 
Hat making � you must be bananas?
Mark Harmsworth teamed up with Alison Philips from Engenuity to write this compelling feature on low-cost hat making
Bananarama
The raw material for ideally suited to this form of hatting and fascinators is Sinamay. The comes from the Abaca tree a species of banana tree native to the Philippines fibre winch is woven by hand on looms into sheets and then dyed.
This premier fibre has come a long way from its humble beginning as raw material for our ancestor's coarse and stiff clothing as well as footwear�s and slippers. While the abaca is still being used for these purposes up to the present time. Its application has expanded and improved tremendously, going beyond simple fibercraft to sophisticated industrial uses.
Aside from the traditional cordage application, the fibre is now a superior and important material in the pulp and specialty paper industries and is used in the manufacture of tea bags, meat/sausage casings, cigarette paper, filter papers, currency notes, stencil papers and a host of non-woven product applications.
How to shape it
When water or steam is applied it allows the material to soften before setting in its newer form. In its natural state the Sinamay will appear creamy in colour but with dying can be changed into what ever shade is required.
The process
Measure the size of head around the brim so that the hat block can be created. This can be done with flexible strip of plastic velcroed together to create a look. It is also a lot more comfortable than historical times with the use of a conformature as seen here.
In earlier times the hat blocks were made from wood but it is possible these days to hot wire sculpt it from a block of polystyrene.
The next stage is to sculpt the block and wrap the Sinamay around it. The Sinamay is then soaked in water and then layed over the block.
It is at this stage like tie dying any little blocks and strings are added..
Leave the Sinamay over night to dry and the remove all blocks and supports. It is now possible to trim and add any elements to the finished hat. Feathers, beads, buttons and ribbons for starters�
Examples of finished hats can be seen below created by year 10 pupils at a school in Shrewsbury
Follow this plan to create your ideal hat
As heads vary in size and shape, it is essential to make a made-to-measure hat block. Traditionally this would have been achieved using the conformature. However, as simple method to measure the size of head around the brow is to use a flexible strip of plastic, velcroed together to create a hoop.
Hat blocks can also be created using computer aided design (CAD) and manufactured using CNC machines. They can also be simulated before machining, as is demonstrated in the pictures below.
Moulding
The next stage is to mould the Sinamay around the hat block.
Soak a one metre square piece of Sinamay in water
Lay the wet sinamay over the block and secure with wide elastic.
Small blocks, strings, pegs can be added to freeform the brim. The Sinamay is so flexible that the shapes achievable are limited only by the imagination.
Stiffening
Spray with diluted PVA which acts as a stiffener.
Leave over night to dry
When dry remove all the blocks and supports.
Trimming and Decorating
It is now possible to trim and add any additional elements to the finished hat.
Finished Products
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